VPA 2 Blade Broadhead – 150 grains

(HIGH DEMAND - JUST SOLD OUT AS OF 10/3/2020!)  If you are thinking Elk, consider this broadhead. For the MAXIMUM penetration in a game animal, a 2 blade broadhead is the choice. Think HEAVY ARROW + 2 BLADE BROADHEAD + WEIGHT FORWARD IN THE ARROW. So when a world record hippo was killed in 4 minutes with a Kodabow, a 2 blade was on the end of a heavy arrow. In our view, this is simply the best 2 blade broadhead you can buy. It is all steel and the ferrule runs all the way to the tip ..... well there really isn't a ferrule. The whole broadhead is machined out of a solid piece of carbon steel. Kodabow offers this broadhead style in both 150 and 200 grain heads. We recommend double walling the shaft when moving up to the 200 grain to create an arrow in the 600 + grain area. The 150 grain was selected to simply beef up the weight of a standard Kodabow Magnum .338 arrow to increase FOC (Forward of Center %) past the 20% level. This would be the choice for big boned game. When thinking about rib versus arrow, the anatomy analysis would suggest there is about a 33% chance of hitting a rib. This is the arrowhead for pass through shots on monster hogs, bison, elk etc. where your confidence will be boosted by shooting a high penetration setup. We always recommend (1) shooting individual fixed blade broadheads before hunting with them to verify flight dynamics (2) sharpening a fixed blade broadhead and not use them straight from package to arrow. This additional honing is required to take the mechanically sharpened broadhead to the next level - scary sharp! Broadhead Sharpening Tips: Here is what we have learned about sharpening broadheads after 40 years. Most manufacturers ship sharp broadheads but they can't spend the extra money to make them razor super sharp without adding $10 - $20 per pack and then no one would buy them. So if you have a 2 blade or 3 blade (fixed blade) broadhead, you have some additional work to do if you want to achieve super razor sharpness. Super Razor Sharp means that the edge will shave hair on your forearm and the hair will literally pop off with little effort. Mechanical broadhead blades are an exception and we shoot these types right out of the package. We use flat stones on other broadheads but also use quality sandpaper on a sheet of glass with similar effects. The beginning grit is 300 and we use three more grits up to 1000 to finish. (300, 500, 800, 1000 type of thing). Most of the work is done on the first stone or paper.  10 passes on a side and then 10 passes on the other side, then 9 passes, then 9 on the other - all the way down to 1 pass per side before moving to the next finer grit where the 10 pass process is repeated again. If there is a good edge on the broadhead already, sometimes fewer passes are needed on the coarse stone. Apply light pressure but do not attempt to remove lots of metal. A sharpie pen is used to blacken the edge and the ink is removed when sharpening which shows exactly where metal is being removed building a burr and then successively breaking it off leaving a crisp edge. We find that we are usually cutting a secondary bevel that is, a slightly different angle than the manufacturer put on the broadhead especially with a 2 blade broadhead. The last stones or papers are really polishing the edge .....you can also strop the edge with leather or cardboard from a cardboard box for final polishing but with the 1000 grit finish, we have stopped doing that being very happy with the end result just with the 1000 grit. Don't press real hard at any stage.  Let the tools do the work. Three blade broadheads like the NAP Hellrazor are easy to sharpen because no additional fixtures are necessary. You can lay the broadhead on two edges and push it forward on stone or paper with the the travel direction towards the point of the broadhead to make one pass. Two blade broadheads are a different story. You can sharpen them as you would a knife but a fixture is better and a nice two blade sharpening fixture made by a company called KME holds a two blade at precise angle to allow each pass on the stone or paper to be exact. It is also easy to flip over to complete the other side passes without removing the broadhead from the device. We have grown fond of two blade broadheads especially on larger animals because of increased penetration. Wear from a quiver during hunting and general use will require that you periodically sharpen up and restore the edges on your broadhead. In that case, use the final two polishing grit levels and you should find satisfactory results with about 50% less of the number of passes especially with a tool steel broadhead like a VPA.